Update: Fats has closed.
I had high hopes for the poutine at Fats, a relatively new NE Portland gastro pub.
Fats has received plenty of press; it’s the latest creation of one of Portland’s most celebrated restauranteurs: Micah Camden, the man behind Yakuza, Beast, and D.O.C. (all of which are within a block of Fats).
The website brunch menu describes the poutine simply:
gravy, bacon, egg & cheese
The menu handed to us at the pub, however, described it thusly (and a dollar cheaper): poached egg, beef gravy, and chevre. Chevre struck me as a strange cheese choice, but then I thought maybe the tartness would serve as a nice counterpoint to the savory richness of the gravy.
But ends up the gravy (though brown, oily, and chock full of bacon and mushrooms) tasted more like sweet and sour American French dressing than beef gravy. The tiny bits of chevre proved not to be counterpoints, but rather tartness intensifiers.
Even with these surprises, though, the poutine at Fats was not unenjoyable. The fries were crisp, the poached egg was perfect, and the bacon added a rich savory smokiness to the proceedings. I finished mine and helped Heather finish hers (she requested the eggs scrambled, on the side). All the while I couldn’t figure out if I liked or disliked the tartness of the gravy and cheese.
What I have decided is that I will have to go back and try it again. Poutine is also available on the dinner menu as a starter: gravy, fromage blanc, poached egg. That sounds about right . . .
2930 NE Killingsworth Street
Portland, Oregon 97211