Jolly Roger (East)

Jolly Roger poutine-style fries

Recently it was brought to my attention that Southeast Portland’s venerable Jolly Roger has something on their menu besides your typical Portland bar fare:

Basket of Fries $4
~ Poutine Style (smothered with cheese & brown gravy) $5

So how does it taste?

I met my friend Andy at the Jolly Roger on a recent afternoon to give the poutine a try. Andy is French-Canadian by proxy (i.e. his wife, Lynda, is a bona fide Québécoise), so he’s had plenty of poutine in his day (no pun intended). We shared an order.

Oh my. Yup, that’s a ton of cheesy goodness on top. Poutine-style fries, as you can see, are served in a bowl. The bowl comes to the table howlingly hot from a visit to the oven for cheese melting purposes.

Jolly Roger side view

The fries are of the thinner variety, but not shoe strings. The sauce thoroughly glommed onto them beneath the layer of cheese – so there’s no gravy puddle to clean up with errant fries at the bottom of the bowl.

The cheese is not cheese curds, obviously, but the gravy was as close to typical Quebec poutine sauce as I’ve encountered in Portland; sticky, brown, and salty. The fries were the weak point of this poutine (unless you’re a stickler for tradition and knock off points for the shredded cheese in lieu of cheese curds). They tasted a bit stale, which makes me think they might have been at the bottom of a big bag of frozen fries. I’ll have to try them again to make sure.

Andy and I agree that the poutine is damn good, with the couple not-insurmountable flaws mentioned above.

And amazingly, the poutine can be had for a mere $3 during happy hour (3-6pm), making it the cheapest poutine in town!

And even more amazingly, you can order tater tots poutine-style too! I wasn’t feeling quite that decadent on my visit. I’ll save it for some drunken evening . . .

Jolly Roger (Eastside)
1340 SE 12th (SE 12 and Madison)
Portland, OR 97214
Phone: 503.232.8060
Web: www.JollyRestaurants.com/jolly-roger

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